Donna Richardson Travel Journalist

By Donna Richardson

A tropical island is just the place for busy people to unplug from the matrix of everyday life. As an always-on-the-go busy working mum, I jumped at the chance to fly off to Saint Lucia for four days for an artist’s retreat at ‘StolenTime’ by Rendezvous for a pre-Christmas break. The idea of immersing myself in a landscape that inspires creativity and engaging in activities that promote health and well-being was a very appealing way to end a hectic year.

As soon as I stepped off the plane, the warm Caribbean air greeted me like an old friend. Our taxi meandered up the coast and into the rainforest on our way to the island’s capital Castries. Luckily, St Lucia is below the hurricane belt, so no chance of getting blown about.

We were destined for a 100-bedroom resort aimed at adults. This hotel was two miles from Castries, close to George F L Charles Airport, which takes small domestic flights. We flew into the south of the island, and it took under an hour from Hewanorra International Airport, just enough time to brush up on my St Lucia knowledge and to get to know my travel buddies and London-based artist Venetia Berry, who was about to lead the art-focused retreat centered on sparking creativity and joy. For me, art has always been a way to relax, and combining art with travel is proven to help express your creative side. It also reduces stress, and allows participants to get in touch with their innermost feelings.

Away from the pressures of the modern world

At StolenTime by Rendezvous, escape the pressures of the modern-day world and fill your time with activities designed to promote relaxation and inner peace. The former coconut estate was where St. Lucian planter Dennis Barnard built his family home on Malabar Beach in the 1950s. After numerous inquiries to stay there, their house was extended to include 20 bedrooms and was named the Malabar Beach Hotel. Over the years, the hotel grew, and in August 1983, the Barnard family took out a franchise, and the Malabar Beach Hotel became Couples St Lucia, an all-inclusive resort. In April 1993, the Couples franchise ended, and the resort reverted to the direct leadership of Craig Barnard. In 2023, the hotel was rebranded as StolenTime by Rendezvous, appealing to single travellers and groups of friends as well as their traditional couple’s market. I was excited about what the retreat had in store for me. The stunning landscape, relaxing atmosphere, and art-focused activities were just what I needed to unwind and recharge.

A home-from-home

Although we arrived at the resort late in the evening, we were excited to explore. As we stepped out of the taxi, we were handed hot towels, a rum punch, and our room keys. The entrance to the resort was stunning, with a wall of running water that instantly calmed and soothed us. We emerged onto a jungle-lined path, and at the centre of the resort was a 150-year-old giant Samaan tree, a beautiful and enormous flowering species that belongs to the pea family. Its huge branches were lined with tiny lights that cast a romantic glow. In the lobby was a beautiful Christmas tree and all around the resort were giant presents. What a wonderful way to get into the holiday mood. The familiar lullaby of tree frogs and waves crashing against the shore filled the air making for a memorable walk as we made our way down the jungle paths to our various accommodations.

I was delighted to learn my one was a signature poolside suite. The water in the pool was illuminated bright blue by a full moon. In my room was a bottle of Champagne on ice and a fruit platter. The air was cool, and the king-sized bed was inviting after the long journey. I was amazed by the space, with a huge wardrobe, hardwood furniture, a comfy armchair, tea and coffee-making facilities, an iPod docking station, and a mini refrigerator. The highlight was the oval bathtub complete with REN toiletries, and I couldn’t resist running the bath at once.

After a long, indulgent soak, I got dressed and headed to the champagne bar, where  I was handed a glass of Laurent Perrier, and the pianist, Guilford, was playing As Time Goes By from Casablanca. This set the scene perfectly for our welcome meal at the Terrace restaurant, which was a delicious a-la-carte affair. The food was amazing, and we enjoyed every bite. As I headed back to our room, I felt relaxed and content, knowing that we were going to have a wonderful time at this beautiful resort.

Exploring new surroundings

The next morning, I woke up early to the sound of raindrops tapping against my window. It dawned on me I was on holiday in the Caribbean and had been looking forward to exploring the beautiful beaches. Despite the rain, I was eager to head straight down to Malabar beach. As I walked along the two miles of soft white sand, I could feel the warm rain cooling my hot skin. It was a tropical downpour, but I didn’t mind. In fact, I found it quite refreshing. While I was enjoying the beach, some friendly stray dogs came running towards me and eagerly wanted to play. I always feel relaxed in places where there are animals around, and these dogs were no exception, neither was the resort’s friendly cat Bubbles.

As I listened to the waves breaking against the shore, I felt even more chilled. I’ve always been magnetised by the sea, and being on this beach was a dream come true. The sun began to rise, and the sounds of birds filled the air, setting me up in a zen mood to start my day. I had just enough time to get changed before my first fitness session of the holiday, led by former Olympic athlete Derek Redmond, the former British record holder for the 400m and 4x400m relay gold medallist at the World and European Championships. And to add to the stardust, one of my classmates was two-time Olympic silver medallist Jamie Baulch and his lovely wife Cheryl Hicks. They welcomed me with open arms and asked me to join them for breakfast. What an incredible opportunity! We headed straight to the Terrace Restaurant, which overlooks the sea and is open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. All meals here are served buffet-style. We enjoyed a traditional St Lucian breakfast where we were introduced to the delicious salt fish and talked about our fitness goals and love for the beach.

Taking a look around

Then we were taken on a tour around the property. The place was majestic and grand, with 100 rooms and suites. I was amazed by the variety with each one unique in its own way. We started with the premium garden view rooms, situated in a three-storey West Indian-style building. The rooms were airy and spacious, with large French mullion glass doors that opened to a comfortable patio or balcony. The lush tropical gardens were visible from the rooms, adding to the serene atmosphere.

Next, we moved on to the premium veranda suites, perfect for lovebirds, overlooking the resort’s tropical garden and the ocean in the distance. The top-floor rooms had expansive cathedral ceilings, making them even more romantic. I was in awe of the signature beachfront rooms. The private terrace or balcony, sitting hammock, and large bathrooms with a glass block wall and marble vanity unit made the rooms feel like a luxurious retreat. The Signature Beachfront Cottages were equally breathtaking, with gingerbread fretwork, lush gardens and private patios. Finally, we reached the signature beachfront suites, which were slightly larger and had split-level bedroom/sitting areas. The beautiful bathrooms feel like a spa and balconies and terraces offer a perfect spot to unwind while overlooking the sea.

Getting Arty

We all returned to the champagne bar, which Venetia had set up with all the art materials we needed to create whimsical landscapes. The soothing jazz and blues music playing in the background set the perfect ambiance to inspire creativity. With the mysterious Piton peaks and tropical foliage as my muse it was a liberating feeling to let my creativity flow freely.

After the painting session, we enjoyed a rum cocktail with the general manager at Malabar Beach Club. The restaurant overlooked the sea, and we were able to dig our toes in the sand as we ate our lunch under an open sail. The restaurant featured a la carte options of light cuisine, using local island ingredients and fresh produce from the local market. I chose the delicious Creole pork dish, which was perfectly paired with a bottle of Piton beer. After lunch, I decided to take a kayak out to sea. The balmy day and the approaching rain shower made for an energising experience. As a water baby, I love being at sea and this was the perfect way to spend my afternoon.

Sunset Ta’i Chi and street parties

This resort is made for relaxation, and one of the best ways to do this is Sunset T’ai Chi on the Rotund. The leader was very calming and radiated positive energy, which immediately set me at ease.

It was a wonderful experience to practice this ancient martial art while watching the sun go down and it was a great way to clear my mind and focus on the present moment. I must have absorbed the positive energy of the master as I felt an inner peace and a sense of calm that I hadn’t experienced in a long time. Later that evening, I joined my colleagues for a beach barbeque at the Terrace restaurant.

Friday night is local night, with an array of Caribbean food and island flavours with wonderful sauces and sides. The talented musician playing the steel drums added to the lively atmosphere, and we all enjoyed the delicious food and the good company. After dinner, a couple of us decided to venture out of the resort to catch the Friday night street party in Gros Islet, Castries. It was a great opportunity to see a different side of the Caribbean and experience the local culture and traditions. As we arrived at the street party, we were greeted with the vibrant energy of the event. A mix of street vendors were selling rum, beer, and trinkets, and the bars were full of rowdy people. At the end of the street, a big boom box blasted out soulful reggae tunes, and locals taught cruise ship passengers how to dance. St Lucia is renowned across the Caribbean for being a party island, and the nightlife is an experience not to be missed. We danced and laughed for an hour, immersing ourselves in the lively atmosphere and the local traditions. It was a great way to connect with the locals and learn more about their culture. As we made our way back to the resort, we were just in time to catch the musician crooning reggae classics and we reflected on a night that had given us the best of local culture while still enjoying the luxury and relaxation of the resort.

Beachfit and activities

The next morning, Derek hosted another body fit session on the beach and this time he really put us through our paces with high intensity training. Later his wife Maria and Cheryl and Jamie joined us for breakfast, and I was able to chat to Jamie and get a glimpse into his fascinating achievements and how he was taken under the wing of the great Colin Jackson and became one of the fastest 400m sprinters of his time. Yet he was incredibly down to earth and gentle and soon, he, Cheryl and I were chatting like old friends.

More adventurous guests can try their hand at water-skiing, windsurfing, and sailing in Hobie Cats. They will love the thrill of the speed and the wind in their hair as they glide across the water. Scuba diving is also a chance for thrill-seekers to experience the vibrant coral reefs and the colourful sea life that surrounds them. Others might prefer to stay on dry land and take advantage of the many activities available, including tennis lessons from the resident pro and Caribbean dance classes. For those who want a more laid-back experience, there are plenty of board games and other games to choose from. There are also cycling tours around the island, beach volleyball, cricket and a modern air-conditioned gym, fully equipped with all the latest equipment.

Rum Tasting

Another trip highlight was a visit the Bernard Rum Distillery, owned by the hotel proprietors. As we drove through the Rosseau Valley, we marvelled at the varied Caribbean landscape, passing banana plantations and lush tropical rainforests. Upon arrival, we were shown an educational video that highlighted the impact of sugar on the island’s society in the late 1700s. We learned how St Lucia had numerous small plantation distilleries, but by the 1950s, only two distilleries remained operational, including the Barnard Family Estate in Dennery, known for producing strong white rums.

In 1972, the Barnards partnered with Geest and relocated their operations to the Roseau Valley, where molasses, the raw material, is now imported from Guyana and transported to the distillery. The group was fascinated by the bubbling vats of fermenting liquid and rich smells, as well as the distillation in beautiful copper stills. The most fascinating part was the ageing process in oak barrels that previously held bourbon and port, imparting unique flavours and colours to the rum. At the end of the tour, we were able to sample over 30 varieties of rum and liqueurs. Feeling merry, we were whisked away to the shop to purchase our favourite tipples to take home. On the way back, our tour guide who happened to be a bonafide popstar in his spare time told us about his island we stopped at a banana plantation to enjoy some of the sweetest fruits I have had ever tasted. At another roadside store, overlooking Marigot Bay, locals were selling intricately made banana leaf baskets.

I decided to purchase one to take home. We then dipped down into the bay to catch a speedboat back to the capital where we pitched up at the Hurricane Hole for a beer.  From here, one can could access great diving opportunities or explore further afield to the mud baths of La Soufriere, the drive-through volcano, and the Pitons beyond. St Lucia’s dramatic west coast is an area of natural beauty, protected by UNESCO. It is also famous for its chocolate so I made sure I ordered a few bars.

Castries

As we headed back to Castries, a tropical storm breezed over us, but we were handed a glass of bubbles and enjoyed a scenic ride back, past forts and lush green landscapes. The tropical rain kept us nice and cool until we moored into the Castries dock, close to the cruise ships. We had a brief opportunity to tour the neighbourhood as we moored at the crowded harbour, smack in the middle of the Saturday market with merchants selling the juiciest local mangoes, prayer beads, and colourful scarves in addition to luscious bananas straight off the tree. Shopping at the market was a unique experience where you could haggle for mementos. After exploring, we returned to Rendezvous just in time for the afternoon tea service and to catch some rays before getting ready for dinner at the Thyme French restaurant where we enjoyed a three course a-la-carte dinner. This is the place to get dressed up and enjoy a fine dining experience.

The next morning was spent relaxing in the oasis of beautiful private garden river pools on a sun lounger before a massage at the spa. The spa is housed in a traditional West Indian style building surrounded by trees and a reflection pool. The staff, trained at the hotel’s sister resort, BodyHoliday, had won numerous awards for the best spa in the Caribbean. I was booked in for a full head, neck, and shoulder massage, and my therapist, Avril, was so good that I booked her again for a full-body massage the very next day to release the tension I had built up. Guests can choose from a variety of massages, including Swedish, Deep Remedial Tissue Therapy, Aroma Stone, and Hawaiian Lomi Lomi, to name but a few.

As soon as Avril laid her healing hands on me in the cool ambient room, I felt a wave of relaxation wash over me. She told me she sensed some blockage in my head, which allowed me to open up to her about my stresses. She worked her magic, and soon all my worries left my body completely. The second massage was a full-body massage, which released some of the toxins in my legs in particular. I felt rejuvenated and ready to take on the world after my sessions. The spa was truly a haven of tranquility and relaxation and I felt grateful for the opportunity to indulge in such a luxurious experience. I floated back to the champagne bar for our second immersive art experience where we painted landscapes onto muslin. Venetia who had lots of tips to help us out. Soon we had created our masterpieces and laid them out under the sa’aman tree, it was a very natural experience where I felt connected to the natural world and the tropical scenery which was my muse.

Rodney Bay

Another great place to explore is Rodney Bay and I was invited to the Bay Gardens Beach hotel in Gros Islet for lunch, which made a refreshing change. The hotel was very welcoming and family-friendly. We sat by the seafront for lunch enjoying the vast great array of watersports and activities. With just  78 rooms, Bay Gardens Beach Resort is growing in size, adding 27 more rooms, so it is a nice alternative if you are visiting with family and children, since Stolentime is couples only. I was able to have a stroll around this complex and head down to the Rodney Bay area to gaze at the boats before heading back to the hotel.

Upon return to the hotel, we had a final afternoon tea watching a jazz musician play the blues. I sat nibbling my ginger cake and thinking about what a wonderful experience this had been. I felt relaxed and rejuvenated. We then met for a cocktail on the beach to watch the sunset before we headed to Malabar for our final evening meal. At night the restaurant takes on a special ambience with flame torches lighting up the pathway. We enjoyed champagne on ice and I ordered a traditional West Indian curry.

We all laughed and reminisced about our favourite moments and realised that we were so lucky to experience this resort at this special time of the year. Stolentime by Rendezvous gave me memories which I will treasure forever. Overall, my experience was nothing short of magical. The resort offered the perfect blend of luxury, relaxation, and adventure, making it an ideal holiday destination.

Getting there: BA Flies from Gatwick Airport to Hewanorra

Stay at Stolentime by Rendezvous or Bay Gardens Beach Resort