By Donna Richardson
Carinthia is the most southern region of Austria on the Eastern Alps bordering Italy and Slovenia. Surrounded by majestic mountains, glistening lakes, and picturesque slopes, Kärnten, as it is locally known, is a wild and rugged terrain and is a well-kept secret in the ski world – a skiers and snowboarders paradise with ungroomed slopes served by 235 ski lifts many built in the fifties and sixties and some in the eighties.
Klagenfurt
Flying to Carinthia takes an hour and a half with Ryanair. You’ll arrive into Klagenfurt, a beautiful city located on Lake Wörthersee, one of Europe’s largest and warmest Alpine lakes. The Mediterranean climate ensures pleasant summer days, sunny winters, colourful autumns, and mild springs. The city’s perfectly restored palaces, courtyards, and squares exude Renaissance charm.
Carinthia is a winter wonderland where you can ski up until spring and experience the thrill of skiing in its truest form. From here you can begin your journey into the mountains embarking on a 70-mile drive, passing by lakes and pretty villages Approximately one hour later, you arrive at the stunning resort of Innerkrems, where you can experience the thrill of ski touring and challenging freeride ski terrain.
The region has a unique dialect, heavily influenced by Southern Bavaria and South Slavic. Speaking German here can be a challenge as the lingo is distinct, so they rarely understand you. One of the reasons could be its proximity to Italy and Slovenia and that Carinthia was once part of the Carinthian Holy Roman Empire until its dissolution in 1806. With the ending of the First World War, the Austria-Hungary empire was dissolved in 1918 and new countries were formed. Carinthia remained a semi-autonomous state with its constitutional structure but during the Treaty of Neuberg, the Habsburgs divided up their territories, and the Duchy of Carinthia became part of Inner Austria. Western Carinthia was a rich gold mining area, particularly Heiligenblut, and tourism came to the mountains in the early 20th century, when hikers came to explore the region’s stunning natural beauty. The skiing industry began to thrive after the Second World War when the first tourists arrived to go skiing and now you can discover the prime free-ride territory, ski touring, and 730 kilometres
Innerkrems
Innerkrems is a low-lying resort located between 1,550 and 2,200 metres that caters to every taste and budget. What sets Innerkrems apart is the absence of lifts, so skiers must rely on their own steam. This makes for an exhilarating adventure that warms you up nicely for skiing in the resorts farther afield. Ski touring in Innerkrems is a fantastic way to explore the mountain and challenge yourself, getting those muscles nicely warmed up for a great workout. The slopes to the left of the mountain are for more accomplished skiers, while the other side of the mountain offers nicely groomed blue runs for those who want to ease themselves into their ski holiday. With ski touring, skiers find an exhilarating way to see the mountain while burning calories before a pleasant ski down the mountain.
For those looking to escape the crowds, Innerkrems replaces groomed slopes for challenging freeride and un-pisted terrain. This means it is perfect for ski tourers, free-riders, and snowboarders. In addition to the demanding off-piste terrain, there are numerous well-groomed blue runs on the mountain’s opposite side for those who prefer a gentler start to their ski holiday.
The Alm Resort Frühauf Innerkrems
The Alm-Resort Frühauf Innerkrems, owned by Christian and his two sons, is a stunning hotel offering a luxurious spa experience. It also has a kids club and a shop selling toys and ski equipment, making it perfect for families. The hotel offers everything inclusive, so you can help yourself with drinks during the day and enjoy a well-stocked buffet with delicious salads and sides. Guests can cook steak, fish, and cheese on a raclette machine and sample some of the local Carinthian white wine.
Those who do not want to ski can enjoy the incredible spa area, which has two pools including one overlooking the mountains as well as an infra-red area. This is a relaxing way to rest your ski legs and many choose the hotel simply for its spa offerings.
If you head out to the balcony in the late afternoon, you can enjoy an incredible sunset over the mountains.
Bad Kleinkirchheim
It is possible with Ski Weekends to combine this break with a stay at Bad Kleinkirchheim, otherwise known as BKK. To reach this resort you drive past the home of ski legend Franz Klammer. You’ll also pass as the beautifully serene Lake Millstat which on a clear day reflects the mountains. We reached our home for the next 24 hours, Kolmhof Hotel which is a luxury hotel with huge rooms and a double bed dressed in bright pillows folded in an Austrian style. Beside the bed is a rustic wooden table with two chairs. Guests will also find a TV and a large bathroom with a shower. As with all of the accommodations, the huge balcony has stunning mountain views. What’s more, the hotel is ski in and ski out allowing guests to get straight onto the slopes.
Unlike Innerkrems, BKK has 24 lift and cable car facilities, linking the ski area. It is a very affordable ski area with the ‘Family Euro’ ticket children up to 12 years old can ski for just a euro a day. Taking the chairlift up to the top of the mountain you can start with a challenging red run. Guided by Micheal from Alpine Connect, I began from the top with red runs but found them challenging and craving more groomed blue runs, so I stopped for a mid-morning coffee at Maibrunnhüt and later my colleagues joined me for a delicious lunch. The portions are incredibly generous, and the food is super tasty. Schnitzel is a must-try and pairs perfectly with Austrian beer. As is the case, all over the country, the portions are incredibly generous and the food is super tasty. I chose a lunch of schnitzel which arrived on a huge bed of chips, and enjoyed an Austrian beer.
In the afternoon, Rob Stewart, a top freeride skier, gave me some tuition to help me get down the middle section of the mountain. I challenged myself to put into practice some of the tips but due to my mindset and nerves, I repeatedly found myself tumbling head first. However, I was able to make a great emergency stop. We changed course and attempted more blue runs and mountain trails. What is great about BKK is that you don’t have to be a great skier, one can glide down without much ability but it is also incredible terrain for expert skiers. My confidence returned as we skied down some more blue runs and trails. Eventually, we navigated reds safely before stopping at a mountain hut for a beer with the rest of the group. The libations gave me the courage to ski the final descent into the BKK valley. Although our group was made up of different abilities, I was by far the weakest link so having the help of instructors was crucial in getting down the mountain. Thankfully we all met up at a mountain huts for a beer. Here the apres ski is more of a hot Aperol rather than champagne.
During the final part of the descent, I got to know our mountain guide Andreas Schabard, whose patient and gentle instruction helped me get down safely and quickly. I felt very confident under his instruction and his family have been farmers in the area for 300 years and they own a large part of the top of the mountain. Andreas was very calm and patient with me which allayed my anxiety and helped me get down the final section of the mountain into BKK after complete panic stations set in.
Despite a shaky start, I felt like I had achieved so much by the end of the day, and one of the best ways to celebrate the days wins is to relax in the superb spa with an outdoor pool and a jacuzzi as well as several relaxation areas which are family-friendly.
Trattlers Einkehr
Trattlers Einkehr restaurant is where Franz Klammer enjoyed his 70th birthday. His gold jacket hangs up on the wall with a signed poster from the film. Carinthia is authentic and a place where you’ll be warmly welcomed. All the staff are dressed in traditional costumes and can enjoy generous portions of local food. I chose the superb Chaud fish, a type of trout native to the lakes surrounding the resort to locally sourced vegetables. The ethos here is stainable and quality food from farm to table. They are champions of slow food, even winning some awards. We drank local wine and a spirit called KGB, made by a local ski athlete rather than a spy.
Großglockner and Heiligenblut
We set off early the next morning over to the other side of the valley and towards the Großglockner, which means ‘great bell’. We were destined for Heiligenblut, a village which has access to slopes on the highest mountains of Carinthia reaching 3,000 metres. Being so high up, there is snow almost all year round, particularly on the glacier. Heilingenblut itself is an authentic gold digger village and while the mountain gold is long gone, you can still enjoy goldwashing in the streams. As you climb the hill towards the ski lifts, you can’t help but notice the Church of the Holy Blood which strikes a dramatic pose against the backdrop of the enigmatic peak. In the year 914, a Danish prince brought the ‘blood of Christ’ from Constantinople to the village, where it still lives today. The church spire reaches up to the heavens past the very top of southern Austria.
Winterlust on the mountain
From the lift, you can access the entire Großglockner/Heiligenblut ski region, a snowy winterland, which is great for the whole family, You can take children under 10 to ski with a “Snowman Ticket” costing just 9.5 Euros per day and access to a snowy winter wonderland full of rugged beauty which makes it unique from your typical Alps resorts. When you reach the middle station, there are two options to ski. Beginners and intermediates will love taking the ski train comprised of a series of alpine carriages painted in bright vintage colours, built-in 1987.
As the snowflakes come down this looks even prettier. This side of the mountain is popular with school groups with some nice blue runs while more experienced skiers you will find a stimulating terrain on the Grossglockner side where you can experience off-piste skiing in the powder. The resort is very functional and practical yet at the same time retains an old-school charm that is not often found in the Alps. I found a wonderful cafe to enjoy the local delicacy.
Hotel Kärntnerhof
In terms of accommodation, you get value for money and quality, plus the people are warm and friendly as we found when we stayed at the Hotel Kärntnerhof. The hotel is run by two sisters who bought the property in 1999 with their mum and dad who ran it before them in the 1960s. Their father was a mountain guide who would take the guests up Grossblockner 80 times in his career. The rooms are spacious and modern, with a widescreen tv and a bathroom as well as a huge comfy bed. The hotel itself is a delightful example of turn of the 20th Century architecture and antiques chart the hotel’s history from the wonderful wooden beams on the balcony to the old wardrobes, chests and skiing memorabilia scattered in the hallways. This is the place to stay if you want to experience true luxury, as well as history. The front of the building is painted with wonderful artwork and the outside features traditional beams of a charming rustic ski chalet hotel, which I enjoyed thoroughly as I raised a glass of wine on the balcony overlooking over the mountains in my robe before taking a swim in the wonderful round pool in the spa downstairs.
I then took a walk back up the hill towards the main shopping area and popped into a few bars to experience the après scene. We were invited as guests of the Hotel Larchenhof, for an aperitif. This is a hotel frequented by Steve Allen, who makes the puppets for The Muppets. During one of his stays, he gifted a little guy called Germknodel to the hotel. We tried a local brew made from roots from a local tree, a truly potent concoction that enhanced our authentic experiences. The views were as astounding as the sunset. Back at the hotel, we had the most amazing dinner; pumpkin soup, followed by veal casserole and a superb Tiramisu served by Helga.
Overall, thanks to the patient instruction from the team I was delighted with the progress I made on my ski trip. I also had the opportunity to discover a whole new destination to ski in. Carinthia is a wonderful place to enjoy a Ski Weekend holiday with friends, but is also recommended to families with older, more capable children who are into adventure. The Carinthian motto of relaxation and enjoying life is reflected in everything they do from skiing to the après. Choose Carinthia for the perfect short break for the adventure enthusiast, with the right mix of adrenaline and relaxation.
Fly with Ryanair to Klagenfurt. On the return home take the plane from Salzburg back to London Stansted also with Ryanair. Kit to pack in your suitcase Panda goggles and Maier salopettes.
Find out more about FlexiSki and Ski Weekends adventures at www.flexiski.com or www.skiweekends.com.
More about Carinthia here: http://www.visitcarinthia.at/carinthia-ski-resorts/grossglockner/-heiligenblut/
http://www.kaernten.at/kaernten-skigebiete/bad-kleinkirchheim/
Donna Richardson Travel Journalist 
Leave a comment